“There’s a great little place in West Tampa on Armenia,” a friend said matter-of-factly, as we discussed my Jan/Feb issue’s review of Acropolis Taverna. “It’s a rustic, Tampa gem. A 40-year-old restaurant where old-timers sit around and talk politics.”

 

Well, he was dead-on about the old-timers – and other agers – chatting politics at the West Tampa Sandwich Shop (pronounced Wes Tompa Sanweesh’op by some locals); but not so much about the place’s age. Although many I’ve told have found it hard to believe (and its exterior gives no clue otherwise), a little research revealed the landmark is just 16-years-old. Still nothing to sneeze at – especially when counting in Tampa restaurant years.

 

My visit – from step one through the front door – was flat out surreal and certainly not what I had expected. I thought the place would be just like every other run-of-the-mill, Tampa Cuban sandwich shop (as the city is in no short supply); but it was far from the norm.

 

First off, the walls are covered with pictures, pictures and more pictures. Pictures of friends, pictures of family, pictures of local politicians … There are also pictures of famous, non-Tampanians. Tipper Gore, Rush Limbaugh, John Kerry and even Cameron Diaz have their portraits posted, each signed with gratitude to their hosts, Willy and Nidia Barrionuevo; the long-standing owners of the little restaurant.

 

In the very back of the place hang three framed West Tampa Men’s Club polo shirts, each sporting proudly a different name across its chest: Mike, Jettie B. and Frank. I’m assuming “Mike” belonged to Mike Scionti, who founded the Club during one of his many visits to the restaurant. (Not surprisingly, Scionti used to chair the Hillsborough Democratic Party.) Except for these things, the décor of the shop is minimal. Roughly 25 tables, a small diner-style counter and a tiny, lattice-enclosed patio area.

 

Hand-drawn pictures are hung by the counter, accompanied closely (and proudly) by multiple cut-outs of a Tampa Tribune article, “A Gathering of Friends,” which features the location. A nearby, empty pastry case dons another award; that one proclaiming: Best of the Bay Café con Leche 2005.

 

On the counter are two large espresso machines, each standing at attention while whistling an ear-piercing tune. Next to the duo is a well-used sandwich presser; polished, gleaming and prepped for its next battle with the hungry lunch crowd.

 

But above all the décor or equipment, the patrons surrounding me are what really stuck out. My dining party sat relatively quiet and to ourselves at a corner table; minding our business and waiting for the server. Okay, maybe my friends were minding their business, but I was actually eaves-dropping on the many conversations circling me. But hey – that’s my job!

 

Four ladies in earshot were holding a roundtable discussion about Hillary Clinton’s ability to be the first woman president. “Clinton can stand with the men and probably straighter,” I clearly overheard one of them state.

 

Another table of two older (or should I say “historic?”), Italian gentleman discussed Amendment #1 (aka, Florida’s property tax amendment) and whether or not it would “do anything to help this crisis we’re in.”

 

Simultaneously, a neighboring table – this one filled with suits – roared over a joke targeting the Dems.

 

The pressure began to mount. I felt an overwhelming need to join in on a discussion about some political hot button, otherwise risk blowing my cover!

 

I resisted by trying to appear engrossed in my menu. Searching it over, I found a small breakfast selection and a small selection of plated, lunch and dinner staples: Picadillo (mixture of ground beef and seasoning), Ropa Veja (shredded stewed beef), Masa de Puerco (fried pork chunks) and of course, Black Bean Soup. The minimalist approach to these choices left space for an inspired list of Cuban-influenced sandwiches; and I’m just about convinced they may offer every one known to man.

 

Strengthening that conviction, with the exception of the bean soup, they’ll turn any of the above into a sandwich. And I’m even betting a bean soup sandwich wouldn’t have been out of the question, would I have asked for one.

 

After about 10 minutes, a server made her way to our table. We settled on four sandwiches: Cuban ($3.99 – how could we not?), Media Noche ($2.99), Tripleta ($4.49) and Bacalao ($3.99); two soups: Gallego ($2.50) and Garbanzo ($2.50); a Papa Rellena ($1.50); and a few cups of Café con Leche ($1.20 each).

 

Where do I begin?

 

The Papa Rellena was the first to come out and was deee-llliiicious! It’s a mashed potato ball stuffed with ground beef, rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. How can you go wrong?

 

The mashed potato was perfect, with no unnecessary seasoning. Just good ole potato. The beef mixture tasted familiar and after a few hours of contemplation, my party agreed that it was probably made with taco seasoning. It didn’t matter, because it worked. The outside was fried to perfect amber gold. Every bite was amazing.

 

The Cuban was good. I like mine piled with pork and this had (I believe we counted) four roasted strands of it. The bread was perfectly pressed and the veggies were crisp and fresh. The traditional Tampa-style Cuban has Genoa Salami – added many years ago to attract Italian settlers to the fare – but none was found on West Tampa’s Cuban. (To each his own.) The “large” size we were served should have been called “gi-normous” (certainly big enough for two); and you can’t beat its price tag.

 

The Bacalao was unusual. Bacalao is a dried, salted Codfish that’s common in Spanish culture. The dish is often served during holidays and is most always made with red and green bell pepper, onions and traditional Spanish spices.

 

As a sandwich, Bacalao doesn’t work so well; but as a hot lunch …it’s awesome! Don’t be afraid of the dried or salted descriptions, as Bacalao just tastes like really good Deviled Crab. However, it’s too soupy for sandwich bread and will have you reaching for a fork in just a few minutes.

 

The Media Noche (aka midnight) was pretty good. For the most part, it’s a smaller version of a Cuban, only with sweet, egg roll bread instead of the crusty Cuban variety. Again, I like mine with more pork, but overall it was flavorful and the size (still fairly large – don’t let the roll part fool you) was perfect. You will not leave hungry.

 

The Tripleta was, how do I say … sumptuous? It is much like the Media Noche, only with more pork and the addition of thinly sliced seared steak! I would describe it as a Philly Cheesesteak meets a Cuban. I could eat a LOT of these given the chance. The sandwich bread is sweet, the steak isn’t greasy, the pork is perfect and it’s all accented by ham. The mayo/mustard combo drips ever so heavenly from the ripe tomatoes. Pure perfection. I could see an entire platter of these being devoured at any game day party.

 

The Gallego Soup, a combination of white beans and collard greens slow-cooked with potatoes and ham, was fantastic. It was creamy and hearty and its flavors and textures wrapped around me like a blanket. It’s a wonderous soup that would be comforting, let’s say, during a rainy Tampa afternoon. You can tell the recipe is one that’s been in the Barrionuevo family for a very long time.

 

Next was the Garbanzo Soup. Undoubtedly, my favorite dish at Wes Tompa. It was everything the Gallego Soup was and more. Slow cooked garbanzo beans married with ham and aromatic spices. Something so simplistic, yet so complicatedly good. Again, creamy and hearty. High salty notes bounced against a peppery background and a rich ham pairing. Unintentionally, I devoured the whole bowl and deprived my fellow diners their taste opportunity. We ordered another bowl to make up for my gluttonous rampage. But it was that good.

 

We ended our lunch with a round of Café con Leche. (Best of the Bay 2005!) Steamed, frothy milk came in a coffee cup, with an espresso shot pitcher by its side. This allowed us to mix our own perfect blend. How the place did not retain its award in 2006 and 2007 is a mystery to me.

 

With a “when in Rome” (or this case, Havana) attitude, my party nuzzled up to their cups of Joe and drifted into a caffeine-charged debate over the State of the Union. I then felt a bit of relief from the guilt of my earlier eaves-dropping, when a nearby gentleman who was listening in on our discussion offered his two cents and pulled up a chair to join us.

 

There is something about West Tampa Sandwich Shop. It’s a place founded by loving people and inhabited by caring ones. You’ll feel very involved and liberated there. And after you eat as much as we did, you’ll also feel very full. 3 ½ Cuban Hats for the food … 5 for the conversation.

 

About the Author:

Michelle Baker and her husband Greg, a classically-trained executive chef, are co-managers of Cooks & Company – a premier, personal chef service. On any given day the team can be found preparing fine meals inside the homes of couples and families across Tampa Bay.

 

Michelle has been featured in The Tampa Tribune and the St. Petersburg Times, as well as on WFLA–TV’s “Daytime.” She is also a reoccurring food explorer for the Tribune and writes for the Eating Tampa and Seminole Heights Eats blogs. To contact Michelle, call (813) 500-3205 or visit www.CooksnCompany.com.